Dec 24th-26th
Amina and my 15-hour train to Chiang Mai was an exercise in self control and endurance. The incredibly bumpy ride and noises emanating through the open windows all night long made the eve of Amina's birthday one she will surely not forget. I, on the other hand, took some sleeping pills and was unconscious and oblivious to her horrible night, and to most of the turbulence on that rickety train.
Elena and Remi had flown to Chiang Mai, so they arrived before us and had arranged a trip to Tiger Kingdom.
Tiger Kingdom is one of Chiang Mai's biggest draws: part sanctuary, zoo and conservation effort all in one. Their main goal is to expose people to tigers and to preserve their dwindling global numbers.
Upon our hour-late arrival, the four of us took a tuk tuk to Tiger Kingdom and enjoyed watching some hilarious Asian tourists trying to stand inside plastic orbs floating on a small pond.
Once our group number was called, we went into the tiger enclosure and followed an usher to the adult tigers.
Entrance is free, but to enter the various enclosures it costs a fee depending on which age group you visit. We had bought a ticket to see the big and small tigers, deciding to skip the cubs because they were only slightly smaller than the ones we would visit.
Like most adult cats, tigers are incredibly lazy and lethargic. They were docile enough that you could approach them from behind and pet them, lie on them and take some great photos with them.
The tigers who seemed more agitated or uninterested in having people touch or lie on them, were left alone to the benefit and lives of the visitors.
Many people often say that these tiger parks are rife with mistreatment of the animals and that they drug them into domestication.
While this could be true at other animal sanctuaries and tiger parks, I felt that due to the playfulness of the young tigers; disinterest of some of the older ones; and the sexual agressivity of those who were caged and wanted to mate; were telltale signs of natural, undrugged behavior. But hey, I'm not a tiger expert so I could be wrong.
After spending half an hour with the adult tigers, we went to visit the juveniles.
These little (comparatively speaking to their giant parents) guys were just as curious and playful as kittens. The trainers would tease them and get them to jump for our amusement. Once again we got to spend quite some time with these beautiful animals.
Later that evening we went to Riverside Bar and Restaurant to celebrate Amina's birthday with some good food and some Thai whiskey.
The following day, the four of us were slated to ride Asian elephants with Eddy Chiang Mai Elephant Care (www.chiangmaielephantcare.com).
Amina wasn't feeling very well that morning and decided she would go see a doctor instead. I selfishly decided to go ride elephants rather than accompany her to the doctor's.
I know. I'm a dick.
Elena, Remi and I were driven to a market where we had to buy bananas and sugar cane for our elephants.
From there, we were driven a few hours into the countryside to Eddy's. Once there, we changed into matching purple outfits and were taught how to ride them and the basics of the language of the elephants developed by several generations of Thai elephant trainers. Some examples were:
- Hu Hu! (Go forward)
- How! (Stop)
- Melong (Sit down)
Elena seemed to be a natural: yelling commands and riding around like a female Hannibal of Carthage might have.
I, not being too keen or comfortable with animals to begin with, chose one of the smallest elephants to train on because if they hated me and through me off, I would have the least distance to fall.
I somehow managed to survive the training, but as luck would have it, I jumped off the elephant and I landed on a piece of metal and cut my toe open. Only me.
After having lunch and disinfecting the wound, we commenced our jungle trek.
Elena was at the helm of the elephant while Remi appeared to cling on for dear life on its back.
I rode on the neck of mine, just behind the ears and had a guide on its back.
Even though it may have been more badass to command an Asian elephant myself, I'm not too proud to admit that I was happy to have an actual guide do his thing.
Out of all the animals I've ridden (horse, donkey and camel), I have to say that an elephant was the most comfortable.
We had chosen our company based on the fact that they didn't use saddles or carriages, which apparently hurts the elephant, so it was nice to be in direct contact with such a gentle giant.
After our trek through the bush, our elephants walked down a small river and as soon as the guides helped everyone down, the elephants started to spray themselves and everyone around them, tourists included.
We were then given brushes so we could scrub them down and thank them for the great experience.
It was an amazing experience, especially on Christmas day, I just wish Amina would have been there to enjoy it with me.
Once we returned, Elena treated Amina to a luxurious spa treatment as a birthday gift. After the ladies got back, the four of us had a delicious northern Thai meal at Heuan Phen restaurant.
The rest of the evening was spent at a reggae bar and then playing drinking games at our lovely hostel, Gong Kaew Huen Kum (www.gongkaewchiangmai.com).
Although Amina and I had only been in Chiang Mai one-and-a-half days, it was already time for us to return to Bangkok to meet up with Yemina and Josh, to head to Koh Pha-Ngan for December's Full Moon Party: arguably the biggest and best of the entire year.
After yet another tediously long train ride, Amina and I made it back to Bangkok in time to meet up with Josh and Yemina at Sirocco Sky Bar for some astounding 360-degree views of this bustling, chaotic city and some astronomically expensive cocktails. This rooftop bar is the same one featured in the Hangover 2 and if you've seen the movie, the view is absolutely spectacular.
(Photo Credit: Amina Qureshi)
Full moon round 2? How could we say no?
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